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Trending Skincare- NIACINAMIDE- an Esthetician's Perspective

Let's start off by saying we are all weak for a good marketing campaign and succumb to the pull of trendy cosmetics that swear that they can fix all of our skin concerns with a single application of some magical potion. I too am a sucker for a fancy bottle of something I should know better than to slap on my face.

That being said, not all cosmetics are created equal. Sometimes you will get a subpar product that has just been disguised with a pretty face, ahem... bottle. Sometimes a seemingly innocuous bottle can be hiding the most potent formula and high tech science that is currently in the industry. Let this be a lesson on not judging a book by it's cover- or better yet a skincare product based on its marketing & packaging campaigns.

I wanted to take a moment to go over a few trendy ingredients on the market right now, what these ingredients do for your complexion and who are my favorite contenders for the category. This will be a multi part series so you aren't reading a whole novel at once.

NIACINAMIDE or B3- We have all heard of her, but who is she and how do I incorporate into my skincare routine?

Niacinamide is a water soluble vitamin that your skin utilizes to help reduce oxidative stress (from both internal and external/environmental stressors.) By reducing stress, our skin can hold on to hydration better and recover more quickly, leaving us with a brighter, more hydrated feel to our skin. By improving the barrier layer of the skin, we reduce sensitivity and reactivity to aggressors- UV exposure, heat, cold and again, stress.

Niacinamide helps oily skin types by reducing the ability of sebum to impact within the pore or follicle. Basically it helps prevent blackheads before they become an issue. We love that!

What results will I see? Brighter, more hydrated skin.

Reduced look of pores and "orange skin" texture.

Visibly reduces discoloration from UV exposure.

What skin type is Niacinamide right for? Everyone can benefit from a cosmetic product containing niacinamide due to the multi-faceted benefits.

Those with discoloration and/ oily skin would be drawn to the pore reduction and oil balancing benefits. *Also has anti-microbial properties so this makes it an effective tool for treating pesky breakouts. Ideally up to a 5% formulation.

Paired with zinc as a partner in skincare, you have a duo that makes acne wish it stayed in bed.

Those who are reactive or drier skin types will benefit from the barrier enforcement and enhanced hydration by increasing your natural moisturizing factor & ceramide production. Niacinamide also helps to boost the skins' immune system and provides anti-inflammatory benefits.

Niacinamide helps brighten discoloration??! This is one of those really cool ingredients because we all know how much I love a multitasker, and niacinamide most definitely is.

Alright so the short explanation is B3 helps to block the enzyme transfer from your melanocyte (pigment cell) to your keratinocyte (uppermost skin cell). Think of defense on a sports team. You don't want the other team getting the flag, so you stop them from taking it in the first place.

Really everything circles back to keeping our skin barrier layer, (first line of defense) healthy. Our skin is an incredible machine and when it has what it needs to function properly, it runs like a well oiled machine and issues such as discoloration, breakouts or sensitivity are a problem of the past.

Contenders for our FAVORITE Niacinamide products-

Naturium Niacinamide 12% plus Zinc 2%- This is a serum that helps to balance oily prone or acne prone skin types while not over-drying those who aren't acne prone. The added humectants provide barrier support while decreasing the likelihood of dehydration. The consistency on this one is a medium thickness gel type serum with a good glide factor so one to two pumps is plenty to cover the whole face. Coming in at $17 it's a great bargain for a solid formulation.

Circadia Skincare Serum 71- This is a brand new item (as of this post) and this advanced formula has a ton of complimentary powerhouse ingredients. This is a nutrient rich, immune boosting formula that boasts niacinamide, tranamexic acid, beta glucan, mandelic and azelaic acids. This is for the person that wants a skincare product that can do it all, so you can do away with having several bottles and just use one! This formula is only available from licensed professionals- Come and see me or email me to get yours!

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